lundi 19 décembre 2016

A week to visit Lisbon and Porto

We left from the airport of La Rochelle, France with a Ryanair flight. The round trip tickets were booked two months prior to the departure for a total of €63 each (airport taxes included).

The duration of the flight was one hour and forty minutes. Departure from La Rochelle at 8:10 pm, arrival at Porto at 9:50 pm. There is one hour of time difference between France and Portugal. When it is 12:00 pm in Paris, it is 11:00 am in Lisbon.

We organised our journey in two parts: 2 days in Porto and 5 days in Lisbon.

Bem vindo a Portugal

Porto airport is located 11 kilometres away from the city centre. To go downtown, you can take the
underground train (line E). The station can be found at the level of the underground car park. There are terminals to purchase tickets. You must take a Z4 ticket in order to reach downtown Porto (27 minutes) or Campanhã railway station (34 minutes).

Please refer to the appendix on Porto’s Public Transport for more information.


We stayed at the hotel Ar e Sol (address: avenida di Aeroporto, Maia 4470-558). €42.50 per night with breakfast included.
The bedrooms are quite simple, with a shower, toilet, bidet, cable TV and free WiFi. Although near to the airport (less than 500 metres), the sound insulation is rather good. You would hear more noise coming from within the hotel than the planes.
The breakfast is scanty though enough. The breakfast room is quite small. There is no buffet. Your table is ready and for each person there is a little bread, a slice of ham, a slice of cheese, a portion of jam and butter, and a croissant. Furthermore, you can have a hot beverage served by the receptionist who watches (over) you as you are eating breakfast.
Botica underground station (Line E) is located 5 minutes away on foot.

Porto in 2 days

The Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas)
The Church of Saint Ildefonso




















We stayed at the Solar Residencial S. Gabriel (address: 98 rue da Alegria – 4000 PORTO), €43 per night with breakfast included and free parking space.
The bedrooms are spacious with private bathroom, TV and free WiFi.
The only problem was the sound insulation. The single-glazed windows do not close properly. Therefore, if you happen to be sleeping on the road side, you will hear cars all night long.
The breakfast is simple. The products are not of the greatest quality, especially the orange juice that is orange just by the colour. There is however a great deal of choice: Coffee, milk, yoghurts, bread, croissants, butter, jam, fruit salad, cheese, ham.
  
There are several tourist offices downtown (in particular at the foot of the cathedral and close by the quays). On Sunday, in both Porto and Lisbon, museums are free.



  1. The Portuguese Center of Photography
  2. The Clérigos Church
  3. The Church of Saint Francis
  4. Sandeman Cellars
  5. The Romantic Museum of Quinta da Macieirinha
  6. The Crystal Palace gardens
  7. The Port Wine Museum
  8. The Quays

    H. The Hotel Solar Residencial S. Gabriel

     


    Note: If you walk by the McDonalds on Liberdade Square, go inside to admire the Art Deco interior.

     

Day 1: The Inescapable Sites of Porto

The Portuguese Center of Photography (Centro Português de Fotografia)
Address: Campo Mártires da Pátria - 4000 Porto
Opening Hours: From Tuesday to Friday, from 3:00 pm to 6:00 pm.
Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays, from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm.
Admission: Free.

It is housed in the building of a former prison and Court of Appeal of Porto. Beyond the interior design that is worth seeing, the historical exhibition where there are hundreds of cameras displayed is quite impressing.

The Church of the Clergymen (Torre dos Clérigos)
Address: Rua dos Clérigos - 4000 Porto
Opening Hours: 10:00 am - 1:00 pm / 2:00 pm - 5:00 pm
Admission: €2

Built during the 18th century, this baroque tower is 76 metres high - the highest in Portugal. You can climb up to the top. The access is restricted to 15 people only due to the never-ending and narrow staircase. If there are not too many tourists, you would not have to wait too long. From the top, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city.























Church of Saint Francis (Igreja de São Francisco)
Address: 39 rue O Comércio do Porto – 4050 PORTO
Opening Hours: From November to February, 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. From March to April and September to October, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm and from May to August, 9:00 am to 7:00 pm.
Admission: €3.50

You have access to the Church and the Catacombs (certainly the most interesting part), as well as to the Museum of the Third Order of Saint Francis, housing belongings of the latter.






















It is almost impossible to leave Porto without visiting at least one wine cellar. They are to be found in Vila Nove de Gaïa, on the other side of the Douro River. To go there, you can either follow the Dom Luís I Bridge -from which you can appreciate the view over the quays- or take the underground line D that goes above the Dom Luís I Bridge and drop you off on the other side (Jardim do Morro station).
If you take the underground, it takes 5 to 10 minutes to reach the quay from the upper parts of the city. You can reach the quays by cable car for 5 euros.



















Sandeman Cellars
Address: Largo Miguel Bombarda 3, Vila Nova de Gaia
Opening Hours: From March to October, 10:00 am to 12:30 pm and 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm (every day).
From November to February 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and 2:00 pm to 5:30 pm (every day).
Admission: €4.50 with wine tasting.

Should you want a visit in your own mother tongue (8 different languages spoken), it is strongly recommended to book it ahead of time. Visits are about 30 minutes long.
The dressed up guide makes you discover the cellars as well as the methods of Port wine storage. The visit ends with a movie introducing the diverse Port wines and also the different regions of production.
After the visit, you can go to the gift shop to savour a glass of white or red Port.


Day 2: Discovering Porto

The Romantic Museum (O Museu Romântico)
Address: 220 rue Entrequintas Quinta da Macieirinha – 4000 PORTO
Opening Hours: From Tuesday to Saturday, 10:00 am to 12:00 pm and 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm. Sunday, 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm. Closed on Monday.
Admission: €0.75. Free on Sunday.

This Victorian-style museum is located at the heart of the Crystal Palace gardens. However it is slightly off downtown. Take the bus to go there. Tours are guided and provided in different languages. The museum recreates the characteristic interior of the 19th century bourgeoisie. The visit includes a series of rooms with their Empire style furniture and painted canvas. The guide will share his anecdotes in every room. Let yourself be drawn in the historical atmosphere of this place.



The Crystal Palace Gardens (Jardins do Palácio de Cristal)
As you are leaving the Romantic Museum, come and get lost in the verdant paths of this wonderful park overlooking the Douro valley (stunning panoramic view).










The Port Wine Museum (Museu do Vinho do Porto)
Address: 45-52 rua Monchique, 4050-394 PORTO
Opening Hours: From Tuesday to Saturday, 10:00 am to 5:30 pm. Sunday, 10:00 am to 12:30 pm.
Admission: €2.20. Free on Sunday.

Located on the quayside, this museum focuses on the historical and current Port wine trade with Europe and the world, as well as on the position of the city of Porto within.
Only problem: Everything is not translated into English, it is therefore quite hard to understand all the information.


Take the touristic tramway that goes alongside the Douro River, you will reach the most western point of the city and the beginning of the jetty (Passeio Alegre stop).
It is an amazing walk along the coast that borders the beach and offers a view on the ocean.













Keep walking along the shoreline heading North, you will arrive at the Castle of Cheese (Castelo de Queijo) that you can visit for only €0.50.



You will also find the Sea Life aquarium, located 200 metres away from the Castle.

Lisbon in 5 days


We stayed at the Residencial Flor Cavaleiros (Address: 58 Rua dos Cavaleiros – 1100 LISBOA), €35 per night. The bedroom has a private bathroom and free WiFi. For ten euros less, you can also book a room with shared toilets on the landing.
Regarding the comfort, the bedroom is very basic. It is quite small and so is the bed. There is no table, nor chair, but on the other hand a huge wooden wardrobe, a fridge, and a TV. The windows were not double-glazed and since we were on the one way street side, there was a lot of noise.
You can take a breakfast (not included in the price) in a very tiny room with four tables, where you are being served à la carte. It is not expensive but it is far from being tasty.
That being so, the price is rather competitive since the hotel is very well located.


Dos Cavaleiros Street
View from the bedroom




A lot of festivities take place in June in the Portuguese capital city. On the 13th, it is Santo António’s holiday. The day before, a parade is organised and people celebrate it throughout the city until dawn.

Don’t hesitate to go there at this moment of the year, the atmosphere is exceptional. An odour of grilled sardines fills the city. All the inhabitants go out: From restaurants to bars, also taking into account many food stands put together just for the event invading the sidewalks. Individuals take out their own (sometimes basic) barbecue as well.

And let’s not forget the sangria, mojito, gingha and other cerveja served all night long. At every corner, improvised concerts bolster the festive ambiance.

























This joyful intimate atmosphere is to be found near the district of Alfama and the Castle. If you feel like enjoying a different ambiance, you would have to go to Avenida da Liberdade where the shows and official dances are broadcast on TV.







1. Saint George’s Castle                                                 2. Graça Church
3. Belém District                                                             4. Estrela Gardens
5. Commerce Square                                                      6. Avenida da Liberdade
7. Gulbenkian Museum and Modern Art                     8. Rossio Train Station
9. Santa Apolonia Train Station                                     H. Hotel Residencial Flor Cavaleiros

Day 1: Alfama District

It is doubtlessly the most picturesque district of Lisbon. Take the time to wander in the narrow cobbled streets, let yourself go wherever you wish to admire the stairs, the small remote squares and especially the azulejos-covered façades.



















Saint George’s Castle (Castelo de São Jorge)
Address: Rua do Chão da Feiar - 1000 Lisboa
Opening Hours: From November to February, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. From March to October, 9:00 am to 9:00 pm.
Admission: €7.50.





Set on a hill, the Castle overlooks the Alfama district. It is impressing by virtue of its architecture, but it also offers a beautiful point of view on Lisbon and the Tagus River.
























From the Graça church (Igreja de Graça), you can enjoy a wonderful point of view on the castle and the whole city.